The last time I had a Kilifi Town tour was in 2021; you can read all about my Kilifi experience here. I didn’t really spend a lot of time there; a lot of that time was spent in Voi, and the greater North Coast, especially in Malindi, and I got the chance to check out one of the most captivating sites in the North Coast, including Hell Kitchen Marafa, which I felt was more mythical than exciting. 2025 is almost coming to an end – therefore, if you still have some savings left that’s part of your entertainment allowance, I’d highly recommend hopping on the Madaraka Express, and experiencing the best of Kenyan tourism.
A couple of weeks ago, my boss (editor) sent me an email that I believe changed the trajectory of my destiny. I’ll get more into that if I get a nod to do a piece on what’s changing in my life. My colleague, Mercy Atieno, has been stuck in South Africa for the past year.
At this point, she’s not only going to be a writer for Reachthedodo, but she’s planning to permanently relocate to the southern-most part of Africa – and Cape Town specifically. You can read all about her experiences in some of the best restaurants in Johannesburg, Nightclubs, holiday festivals, iconic spots, as well as places to live in the South African capital. Her fortunes changed dramatically when she got the same email I received in October: RE: North Coast Kilifi Tour Budget Approved.
After working on a ton of stories in Nakuru and, more recently, Eldoret, I’d been asked to do a story on the North Coast, and Kilifi Town, to be specific. I’ve always felt something special about Kilifi, and rather than hope I’ll save enough to visit this tourist town on the Kenyan Coast, I decided to bet on my employer to turn my dream vacation into a reality. As such, on the 14th of November, 2025, I set out on one of the most amazing assignments since 2020 – I’d like to share part of my experiences with you, so that hopefully, you too can consider visiting this amazing little town at the North Coast of Kenya.
Nakuru City via Nairobi, to Kilifi Town, Kenya
I moved out of my homeland in Marachi, Busia, after 2020, and I’ve been a resident of Nakuru since 2021. I switch between Nakuru and Eldoret for work and family (parents and siblings), and also because of the flexibility of my work – I can work from anywhere in the world if there’s internet, safety, and good food.
I’d tried booking a train to Mombasa for Thursday, 13th, but all the seats were fully booked, and so I put all my luck on Friday, which is perhaps the worst day to book a train from Nairobi to Mombasa – Holiday Makers from Nairobi love weekends at the Kenyan Coast. Fortunately, I was able to get a seat. Reachthedodo had approved a 5-day Kilifi Town tour, and I was given a 30-day deadline to publish the story.
Friday at 8 am, I was at Nakuru Bus Station, Prestige Shuttle booking office, waiting for my bus to leave – we didn’t leave until 10 am, and I was getting a little worried I’d miss my train, which was scheduled to leave at 2 pm. Unlike road transport across Africa, the Madarake Express train leaves on schedule. Luckily, I got to Nairobi at 1 pm and booked an Uber to use the Expressway. Well, there have been negative political undertones about this toll highway in Nairobi, but on this particular day, I’d have missed my train if it weren’t for it.
The Uber ride cost KES. 800 from Westlands, Nairobi, and I was at the SGR Nairobi Terminus in Syokimau at exactly 1:30 pm. It took more than 20 minutes to check in, including mandatory security checks, and getting my ticket, and by 2 pm, we had left Nairobi for Mombasa. I’d booked the Express train – meaning there wouldn’t be any stops on the way, and I’d arrive in Mombasa at precisely 8 pm.
The train ride was a breeze – we shared 6 seats with two pleasant Catholic Sisters (Nuns). I’d prepared for the ride and got a chance to read a book I got for my birthday: Robin Sharma’s The Leader Without A Title. I’d recommend this book to anyone looking to get to the next stage of their career.
Kenyan Coast: First Impressions after five years in absentia
We arrived in Mombasa at 8 pm, and as we stepped out of the air-conditioned train, we were hit by the heavy, humid coastal air that, for people like us who only occasionally ever visit the coast, smells like a mixture of salt and seaweed. It’s a strange smell that fades from your mind in 10 minutes. I’d booked a studio apartment in Bofa thanks to my colleague, Mercy’s recommendation. She’d sent pictures of the condo in Bofa, Kilifi, which was a 10-minute walk to the beach. Unfortunately, Kilifi is quite a distance from Mombasa, and I’d planned to sleep in Mtwapa Town and hopefully leave for Kilifi on Saturday morning.
However, after getting off the train, I realized there was an express Shuttle bus from the Mombasa Terminus to Kilifi, which was a surprise. It’s important to note that there’s also a train from Mombasa Terminus to Mombasa Central Business District. The SGR Mombasa Terminus is located at the limits of Mombasa city. It costs KES. 50 from the train terminus to Mombasa City CBD – I almost got on that train, but fortunately, I got lost somewhere on the elevator with the crowds getting off the train and found myself at the pick up area.
The shuttle bus service from Mombasa Terminus to Kilifi Town costs KES 800, which is a steep amount for an 85-kilometer drive, but on the flip side, it would save me half a day of travelling from Mtwapa to Kilifi. The Shuttle Bus service is organized by Innocent Ultimate Transfer SGR shuttle service: Contact +254011-488-134; 0740-787-798; 0712-410-510 or Driver Number: 0724-454-253.
The Shuttle bus ride was comfortable, compared to the Matatu I’d have used from the city center to Mtwapa. This shuttle service was an express service, and we arrived in Kilifi Town at 10 pm. I’d told my Kilifi contact, Nancy Kissato, who also doubled up as the perfect Kilifi Airbnb host and Tour Guide, that I’d be arriving in Kilifi on Saturday, 15th, and I felt it would have been cumbersome to call her at midnight and ask to be checked in. As such, I asked a motorbike rider where I could get a cheap Bed and Breakfast Hotel in town, and I was directed to the Peacock Hotel and Restaurant.
The Peacock Hotel and Restaurant offered three accommodation options: KES. 1,500, Single Room, Self-Contained (my choice); KES. 2,000, Double Self-Contained, and KES. 2,500, Executive. I didn’t check the other rooms. However, my room was a tiny space, with a dark toilet/bathroom.
It wasn’t bad for rest; they had Wi-Fi, a fan that I felt spun too fast, and a double bed. This room did not come with a TV (which is okay considering you have Wi-Fi), and the sockets were nowhere near the headrest. Still, for KES. 1,500, they promised breakfast in the morning, which, to my surprise, was quite good considering I only paid KES. 1,500. Breakfast was a glass of Passion fruit juice, tea/coffee, toast, baked beans, fried eggs, and two sausages.
Kilifi Town Tour Studio Apartment at Green Estate
I didn’t get much rest at the Bed and Breakfast – I have a problem: I never sleep on the first night when I get to a new place. After breakfast on Saturday, I called my Airbnb host, Nancy Kissatto – I was eager to get to my furnished apartment and kickstart my Kilifi exploration. I was directed to my home for the next five days, located in Green Estate at Dondoo Homes/Apartments.
It wasn’t the Bofa residence I saw in the pictures, still, it was a place I came to love, and also perhaps the main reason my stay in Kilifi was going to be unforgettable. At this point, I’d like to introduce Nancy Kissatto. A charming, extremely pretty, professional lady who hosted me at her Airbnb over my stay in Kilifi.
Her Dondoo Apartments Studio apartment was not only better than what I’d expected at the Bofa residence, but also clean, new, very affordable, and ideally located for my adventures over the next couple of days in Kilifi. I’d also like to add that she’s a valid Kilifi resident, born and bred, and as such, she doubled up as the perfect tour guide for anything I needed while I was in Kilifi – restaurants, where to shop, resorts, night outs, food, tourist sites, history, and transport.
I’d planned to go for a day in Watamu, but my stay in Kilifi was so good, thanks to the location of this apartment, that I cancelled that visit, hopefully for next year. You can contact Nancy Kissatto at: +254 742-406-847. Her Dondoo Apartment Studio costs KES. 2,500 a day/night. In true Kilifi spirit (yes, there exists something like that), she offered me a KES.500 discount because it was her birthday month; therefore, I ended up paying KES. 10,000 for this fancy apartment for 5 days. I must insist: Kilifi is a world-class tourist destination on the Kenyan Coast, and yet it costs KES. 10,000 (less than $100 for a week’s stay is a steal).
The Dondoo Homes Studio was quite spacious for a studio. Even though it lacked a balcony, it still had a classy finish. The apartment came furnished with a large screen LED TV, good-speed Wi-Fi connection, a huge bed enough for three to sleep, electric sockets at all the right spaces, enough cabinetry for all your clothers, a desk and chair (this is an added advantage for freelancers), huge countertop at the open kitchen setup, fridge, burner and hot water kettle, a spacious bathroom with a fountain shower. This studio was extremely classy, with modern finishes.
I loved the early morning musings at the rooftop, which had terrific views of Kilifi – the trees, ocean breeze, and early morning bird chants just made for the perfect meditation before going off for adventures. You could also catch the sunset on the rooftop, which was always incredibly empty – I only ever met one resident, Diana (from Makasembo Kisumu), here, and we shared some pleasant stories and early-morning coffee while watching the Kilifi sunrise (every morning). Aside from my outdoor escapades, my rooftop mornings were among my most memorable moments in Kilifi.
The Dondoo Homes Apartment is also close to so many amenities. Kilifi has only one reliable supermarket, Naivas Kilifi, which isn’t too far from this location. The Studio is also very close to the Vidazini Beach (public beach) and all major resorts along Bofa Road, including the famous Saltys.
Nancy Kissatto also offers a variety of houses for both short and long stays – her popular options include 3-, 2-, 1-bedroom, and studio apartments. For our esteemed American readers looking to visit the North Coast of Kenya, she can also hook you up with executive Villas.
Places to visit in Kilifi Town
I more than enjoyed my Kilifi Town Tour. As I’ve said earlier, the five days I spent in Kilifi Town completely changed the trajectory of my career, and ultimately, my life. I’m still in talks with my editor about that, and I’d like to share how my visit to Kilifi changed my fortunes – and in extension my career path.
I’ll share the sequence of events from how I spent my days in Kilifi town, organized by location and establishment. I believe my experiences will best showcase my stay in this beautiful town on the North Coast of Kenya.
Vidazini Beach Kilifi
I spent every day of my 6-day stay in Kilifi at Vidazini Beach, which is also a public beach. The early morning walks were just to die for, and I enjoyed every moment I spent there. Unlike most beaches you’d find in Mombasa, Vidazini Beach is a white-sand public beach, and since Kilifi is not as populated as Mombasa, Mtwapa, or Diani, the Beach here had almost no people, given that Kenyan schools had closed for the long holidays.
Every morning, I’d walk the entire stretch from Vidazini Beach all the way to the restricted areas of Bofa Beach and would probably meet a handful of fishermen every hour. There are no beach boys at Vidazini. I saw none. I was not hassled for a beach tour, like it would be the norm at Mombasa beaches or even Kikambala – no one begged me to get on their boat for a ride, which was pleasant.
The Vidazini beach is mainly filled with private Villas, and as such, there are very few people walking around looking to make money out of tourists. As such, I believe Kilifi is indeed the perfect coastal destination for both local and international tourists looking to reset. The beaches here have no idlers.
In my experience, this beach was perfect to visit early in the morning and late in the evening (9 am to 11 am, and 4 pm to 7 pm). In the morning, it was the perfect time to check out the aquatic life in a cave on the beach. There were a ton of fish to check out, including Zebra fish, jellyfish, and a host of other colorful, tiny fish I saw every day. The water here is a little bit aggressive, and you’d still get waves in the morning, which were perfect for the long beach walks I had every day.
The warm water gushing at your feet and the natural sounds made by the waves as they hit the white shoreline were something I couldn’t get over during my stay. I’d recommend having a pair of sunglasses (the white sands’ reflection of the sun can be a little hard on the eyes at first), a Bluetooth speaker, a snack pack, and a shawl to sit on while gazing at the ocean.
There are a ton of hotels on this Beach, Saltys Resort, and Mada Hotels were my favorite picks. You’ve got to check out the Coconut Bar at Kilif Bay Hotel on the Weekends – it gets extremely hyped on Saturday and Sunday afternoons – better on Friday and Saturday Nights.
And on a completely isolated note, it is at Vidazini Beach that I met a girl from Rabai, whom I completely fell for. Yes, as a single guy in his mid-thirties, dating a girl from the Coast has always been on my list of things to check off – and even though things look a little dim when it comes to prospects of a future with this wonderful young lady from the coast, I would have never experienced the magic of Kilifi without her charm.
Norah, if, for some mystical reason, you get to read this – I miss you and still think about our beautiful evenings walking along the shores of Vidazini Beach – I really should have said something.
For the first time in more than 15 years, I felt completely vulnerable to a woman. I don’t really know if it was her cocoa skin, the way the wind cupped her Deerah, how I occasionally got a whiff of a coconut oil-scented hair, or maybe it’s that one time she almost fell down and held my hands. The way our hands, intertwined, were so magnetic. I believe this girl is the magic of my soul, but for some idiotic reason, I am so afraid of the distance that keeps us apart.
Kusini Night Club
I love the nightlife, especially Nairobi’s – and for that reason, I had to sample what Kilifi had to offer. Unfortunately, I only ever went out once – and that was on Saturday night. The spot was at the Kusini nightclub. It came highly recommended, and everyone I met in Kilif mentioned it at least once when I asked for places to go and dance the night out – and for that reason, I was compelled to go.
Based on my research, the best times to enjoy Kilifi’s nightlife are during festivals, such as the famous Beneath the BaoBab festival. Other than that, I felt Kusini was such a snooze compared to Nairobi, Nakuru, or even Eldoret nightlife. Still, there are a couple of highlights I had at Kusini. For starters, the ambience is great – it did feel like I was partying at the coast – everything was outdoors. The staff here, and pretty much everywhere in Kilifi (apart from one, in my experience), are very honest. You got the right price for the drinks and food ordered.
At Kusini, the best part was the DJ and the ambience. The DJ at Kusini knows their job, and to date, the following songs remind me of my stay every time they play, thanks to their wizardry behind the decks. Please don’t judge: Hot Body by Arya Starr, Taya by Okello Max, Tamashani by Wakadinali, and Wrong Places by Joshua Baraka are the only songs that remind me of my stay in Kilifi to date. I have a special playlist on Spotify for this.
On the downside, Kusini is a student nightclub, and most of the crowd is under 30. There were a couple of 30-year-olds here and there, but most of the crowd were students from a local medical school in Kilifi, which is good if you fancy that kind of crowd. Therefore, they’d be someone hustling you out of a drink if you strike up a conversation with them. Regardless! I left Kusini Bar at 4:30 am. Yeah, I had a lot of fun.
At this point. I’d like to introduce my Taxi/Motorbike rider, Yusuf Nyundo: (+254)745 185 363 or 0780-630-432. He dropped me off at Kusini at 9 pm and picked me up at 4:30 am. And for the next 5 days, he was my Chauffeur on a bike. I believe the best way to experience Kilif (since it is a small town) is by bike.
Yusuf was so professional, always on time, careful riding on the road, and best of all, honest, that we struck a deal. I’d pay a daily, affordable negotiated fee in the evening, and he’d ride me wherever I wanted. Like Nancy, he’s born and bred in Kilifi, and through him, I managed to sample some authentic Coastal cuisine and sea fish at affordable prices. If you are planning to visit Kilifi, call him for transport, deliveries, or bike tours.
Kilifi Bay Resort/Mada Hotel/Coconut Bar
There are a ton of beachfront resorts in Kilifi town, but for some reason, I chose Kilif Bay Resort. I’d gotten a lot of other recommendations from Nancy and Yusuf, but one day after my routine morning beach-front walk, I spotted Kilifi Bay resort’s Coconut Bar. It’s built on a deck right in front of the ocean, and when the tides come in, you can enjoy your favorite tunes and the natural rhythm of the waves gushing onto the bar. It’s a magical experience, especially on a clear night.
After checking out some aquatic life on the beach, I felt like swimming, and I’m not really a fan of ocean swimming; the salty water irritates my eyes and nose too much for my liking. If I can help it, I’d rather swim at the beachfront swimming pool. Some of the best swimming pools in the Kenyan Coast are in Malindi – the hotels, AirBnBs, and Villas there have invested in very fancy pools.
The swimming pool at Kilifi Bay resort looked nice and clean. Plus, there were only two of us at the pool. It costs about KES. 1,000 for non-residents, which is a steep price considering the beach is just a stone’s throw away. They’ll also offer you a clean towel and a place to sunbathe. The poolside service is very good, and the waiters are always eager to serve you. This resort has a lunch Buffet every day for about KES. 3,000. The drinks here are KES 500 for a local beer.
Since this is an honest experience of my stay in Kilifi, something sketchy happened at the Kilifi Bay Resort. I got a tag for swimming and paid through the system (M-PESA); however, when it came to the drinks (both at the pool bar and Coconut bar), the staff insisted that I pay the bills through their personal numbers. This happened twice, at the pool bar and also at the coconut bar.
Mnarani Ruins, Kilifi (Mnarani Museum)
I didn’t know about Mnarani Ruins in Kilifi unit I got there. It’s such a pity that the Kenya National Museum doesn’t do enough marketing for such a historic site. This historic landmark harbors deep African history and culture, and it should be advertised more. Well, the Mnarani Ruins are located just above the Kilifi Creek, opposite Mnarani Beach Club, and just before you get to Kilifi Bridge as you drive into Kilifi Town.
This historic site is a must-visit for anyone traveling to Kilifi, not just for its historical significance, but also because it’s so affordable and the staff are highly motivated to do their work. One morning, I skipped my routine morning beach walk and instead decided to go to Mnarani Ruins instead. It cost KES. 100, and KES.200 for non-residents – forgive me for being callous, but it’s cheaper than a beer at Kilifi Bay Resort.
The Mnarani Ruins are actually a BaoBab Forest that’s slowly eating up the ruins. The ruins are a historical site built by ancient Arabs who came to the Kenyan Coast to trade their spices, dates, linen, among other things, for gold and slaves. It’s not until you get to the ruins that you’ll get to witness how sophisticated the whole operation was. There’s an ancient jail for slaves, an underground store, mosques, and tombs.
There’s a lot of deep history in how the slaves were channeled out of Africa through Mnarani, and how this specific location is vital to the coastal culture in Kenya, as well as the Swahili language. There is also an active shrine at the Mnarani museum that’s still used by locals to date. I’d like to point out that the Mnarani Museum remains a sacred site for locals, and I was lucky to witness it during my visit. I’d highly recommend you visit this location and ask about all this information – the staff will be happy to walk you through that history.
The Museum also has a snake park with Cobras, Pythons, Black Mambas, Vipers, and other indigenous reptiles collected at the site and its surroundings. They also have a family of tortoises, which makes for a great visit, especially if you are visiting with children.
Note: Many local tourists prefer to do the nature hike through the Baobab forest on their own because they fear the staff will charge a fee. Not at Mnarani Museum. The staff will do it for free and will not pester you for a token of appreciation – I respected them for that. Also, since this is an active sacred location, it’s always advisable to do the tour with one of the staff members – they will offer but won’t insist.
Kilifi Creek and Kilifi Bridge
I have to admit, if you are visiting Kilifi, the best place to swim in the ocean is under Kilifi Bridge on the opposite side of the Creek. I felt the water here was cleaner, and it was almost isolated, aside from the occasional fishing boats. The scenery was also quite pleasant, especially along the front of Mnarani Beach Club.
It’s up to you which side you’ll decide to tour. I had five days and had the chance to walk the entire length of the creek – and it was terrific. One thing you’ll have to consider is carrying enough water and snacks – the creek is a hidden gem, and there aren’t too many tourists visiting this location.
Also, if you want to shoot some fantastic videos of Kilifi, this is the best site. There are Kayaks on the channel, as well as dhows, and other fancy multi-colored rigs going up and down. In the evening, you can schedule a boat ride from the Boat Yard Resort in Kilifi and witness the incredible sunset over the ocean that you’ll ever get to see.
Most of the Kenyan Coast is on the right-hand side, so it’s perfect for sunrise, but since the creek is on the left-hand side (driving into Kilifi), you get to witness the most magical sunset over the ocean. And from November through to January, the Kenyan skies are clear, and the winds are blowing, making for a fantastic ocean breeze. If I ever get another chance with Norah, I’ll propose to her here!
The sunset boat rides are not cheap. Still, it depends on where you get them from. It’s definitely more expensive at The Boat Yard Resort (the experience is worth it, though). I made friends with some fishermen and went for a sunset boat ride – unfortunately, I didn’t bring my phone for pictures because I had to swim a distance from the creek to reach the boat.
Mnarani Beach Club and Resort
This is the best beach Resort in Kilifi in my experience. I loved everything they offered, and after discovering it, I frequented this location daily. For starters, they have the best swimming pool in Kilifi among resorts. The pool was built to give the perfect vantage point of the creek. You can gaze at the Kayaks and Dhows as you enjoy the pool. There’s also an overboard terrace which offers an even better view of Kilifi Bridge and Creek. On weekends, the club has a beachfront event with a boardwalk into the ocean. I did not get to see this, but I will on my next visit to Watamu.
The pool here is also very clean and tidy – it’s crystal clear and maintained daily to keep up with the club’s standards. Swimming for non-residents is KES. 500, which I felt was very fair. The beach is quite a hike from Mnarani Beach Club, considering it is on the other side of Kilifi Creek. Their Buffet costs KES. 2,700 – I didn’t pay for it, but regretted it later after checking out their variety of food they’d put out.
Also, I didn’t get a chance to order drinks here – I actually sat at the bar for more than 30 minutes and did not get anyone to serve me. Later, it was discovered that the staff had a meeting upstairs. Still, that’s money that would have gone into someone’s pocket.
Mnarani Beach Club and Restaurant has a lot to offer. They have a gym and an active sports center. There’s also a garden with a Pizza Kitchen, perfect for weekend brunch. The compound is welcoming and well-manicured. There’s a gang of pleasant monkeys always hovering through the field areas. If you love tennis or ball games, this is the perfect location in Kilifi. A mix of local and international visitors frequent this location.
Kilifi Food Market and Kilifi Saturday Flea Market
Kilifi has a host of resorts, restaurants, and nightclubs you can visit, but it’s also good to check out th local scene and offer some support. Most of my friends knew about my trip to Mombasa, and I’d promised my circle I’d get them something from Kilifi. I’m not the kind of person to get you a Coconut or Apple Mangoes – you can get that from any Naivas Store in the country.
So, I decided to go to the local market and get something truly local for my friends back at home. The local sweets in Kilifi are pretty cheap (Kashata, Buyu, Cassava Crisps, Dates, and Cashew Nuts). Cashew nuts cost about KES. 800 for 50 grams – at Kilifi Market, they cost about KES.50 for 50 grams. I love cashews, so I bought a year’s supply.
Also, ladies looking for coastal wear like Deraahs and Kangas can also sample some iconic designs at the Market. The local restaurants here also offer very authentic dishes. I enjoyed a plate of Birayan, and I must admit it was the real thing.
On Saturday, I also had the chance to visit the Kilifi Saturday Flea Market that was just behind my apartment at Dondoo Homes along Malindi Road. The Flae Market is just like any Sunday market you’d get anywhere in Kenya.
On my way back, I stopped at the local Market opposite Pwani University to get some local fish (Shark, Octopus, Red Snapper) that’d feed me for the next month. During my stay in Kilifi, I made it a point to eat at local restaurants because the food there was on a different level from the substandard fare I’d get at restaurants in Nakuru or Eldoret. The Pilau or Mbaazi in Kilifi is to die for. The Chapatis here cost KES. 20 but taste like heaven and are as big as a pizza pan. I really enjoyed the local food in Kilifi.
Please let us know about this Kilifi Town tour and what you think of it. Also, share this piece with your circle. Based on the ratings, I’ll do another trip to Watamu in January, and probably Diani too. If you have the privilege of travelling, please do!
Must Have Contacts In Kilif Town
Best Airbnb and Tour Guide (All things Kilifi)
Nancy Kissatto – (+254) 0742 406 847
Motorbike Tour (All local Cuisine, Directions, Restaurants, and Street Food)
Yusuf Nyundo: +254 745 185 363 or 0780-630-432.